N 31 A Trip to my Hometown Day 6 ( 9-9- 2012 )

We like to travel early. So when the van carrying Sydney’s family arrived from Kali we departed. On the outskirts of Kunhing we stopped to fill our car with gasoline and were frustrated to see that the pump does not work automatically but found it to be manual. It took about 30 minutes to have the tank filled and we can take off.

Let me relate a little about the electricity they are using in Kunhing. The electricity they are using  here  does not come from the hydropower station og Kyaing-taung, which is only 50 miles away,  but is supplied by a small hydro plant owned by a native of Kunhing called U Sai Nyo. The power supply is not adequate for the use of the town. Most houses use power only for lighting and for mortars to draw water from wells only . So big power consuming household appliances like washing machines and micro-oven cannot be used even if the townsfolk can buy them. The distribution of power is cut about 5 hours in the daytime and 5 hours during the night. During summer the power supply is even more limited. So this may be the cause that the petrol pump is only manual.

Our journey back to Taunggyi was uneventful. The weather was fine. Only sometimes the rain fell but mostly it was sunny. As I have written , many years ago when I was living in Kunhing travelling along this road was an adventurous one . The people of Kunhing can still remember unhappy events that had taken place on this road.  This bend, a few miles from Laikam is the place where Saw Michael  a Karen police officer was shot dead by insurgents. It was at this place that an army squadron was ambushed and many fell.U STM would pointed out to us the places where robbers usually came out. And when we came to Tahsai bridge which is on the Nam Mong stream I remembered the incident when the car plunged into the stream  while trying to make a U turn. Nang On our niece and also our host in Kunhing and some other passengers were thrown into the water. Nang On had her throat  caught in a tangle of vine and she would be dead had someone not come to her rescue. I remembered her eyes were blood red when she arrived back in Kunhing. Some 3 or 4 people died in that accident.

I had been relating unhappy episodes of the past. But there were also happy memories to be recalled even if we may not be the persons to experience them. I remembered  my mother telling me about their travelling on this road. It may be round about 1930 when my mother was about 15. My mother travelled to Taunggyi  with my grandmother in a single bullock cart with the cart driver as their only companion. As was the custom of those days she was wearing heavy jewelleries but there were no dangers of robbers or dacoits. It took them 2 weeks to arrive in Taunggyi. At nights the driver slept on the ground and they slept in the cart she had said.

And in “ Lords of the Sunset “ the author Morris Collis related about his travels in the Shan State. He arrived in Kunhing from Merng Nawng and stayed at my grandmother’s house which was on the east bank of the Nampang stream. The next day he said he reached Kengtung which was 140 miles away. I wonder if such thing is possible in  those days as I myself had travelled to Kengtung round about 1970 in a convoy and had seen how terrible the state of the road was. The road from Kunhing to Kengtung pass over hills and mountains and most parts are tricky and dangerous that many accidents happen on that road.

Well…. I have written much about the road, about the good and bad part of it . But whatsoever the state of the road is people who live in the respective places have to use them. But we cannot help grumbling and comparing it to better roads while travelling in a car. We would compare it to the Japanese bullet train which will take over a little than  an hour for this distance. and also to the Yangon Mandalay expressway where cars can be driven at over 100 KL an hour. I think I cannot expect to travel on such good roads during this life. But maybe in the next life if I were to be born again in this area.

                                               ************************

N 30 A Trip to my Hometown Day 5 (8-9-12 )

Today is merit making ceremony day for Sydney’s mother , our sister in law Daw Nang Seng Aung . The invited guests will be entertained from 8;00 am. Some of the relatives went to the monastery at dawn to offer ah-yone sun to sanghas.

Guests began to arrive at about 8 with their offerings of rice and money and they were treated to a meal of rice and chicken and fish curries as main dishes in a zayat. There was sar –haw ( Reciting of Buddha’s teachings or stories relating to Buddha’s life in poetic Shan language )which most old people listened in the main monastery.

I cannot sit flat on the floor for a long time . So after some time I came out and sat on a wooden seat encircling a tree with some relatives, sometimes greeting people  with gladness in my heart to have to speak to people known long ago and because they are still living . Some had gone ahead of me according to our  law  of impermanence. One person I met at that time and should  mention here   was Sayama Daw Nang Lin the midwife who had brought my second son into this world.I saw U Sai Mya Han , my co-party unit member . a kind and simple man who still looks good though he is hard of hearing. Many people ( including Burmese ) came from other places to work in Kunhing , and they never go back but settle  here and make it their home. Maybe it is a nice place to settle in.

The merit making ceremony took place at 1;00 o’clock and  ended at 2. After that I went back to the house I put up at. I wanted a  photo with the Kunhing signpost . As we had not taken when we came in I planned to go to the other one which is at the east  end of Wan Pang village , on the way to Kali. So Sydney drove me and his sister in law there. Ying who was also on her way to Kali for the third time also stopped there and we took photos together.

The rest of the evening was as usual, having guests at home. The women of the way- yar – wit –sa association who always do voluntary works at the monastery also came and visit. We had some talks which eventually led to the problems of Kunhing , human trafficking and drugs. From such talks I realized that  there are women who would like to see their town changed to become a better environment. And I am glad to see such spirits in women of our town , which is a good sign

 

N29 A Trip to my Hometown Day 4 (7-9-12)

The merit  making ceremony for Sydney’s grandmother will be held at Aung Mingalar monastery ,Kunhing tomorrow. Because it had been held once in Taunggyi this ceremony will not be held extensively.Only people of the town will be invited. There are group of volunteers called wai –yar –wit- sa groups in most towns and villages who do the preparations for the alms offering ceremonies. So the donors just have to send the foods and things needed for the ceremony to the monastery. As food will be served on the next day the volunteers will prepare the whole day and cook during the night.

As for me I stayed at home the whole day and receiving the guests who came and visited me. Ying, my eldest daughter likes to eat some particular kind of food. Today she asked some relatives to make a kind of Shan snack called Khao- mun – swoi  -pa. Let me write about it ,so that anybody who would like to make and eat it can experiment it. Black sticky rice powder (ngar cheik ) is mixed with water and made into dough. Take some dough , the size of a tennis ball and round it in your hands. Heat  a flat pan with a little oil and put the ball on the pan and  flatten it with the back of a spoon and  sometimes overturn it. After a few minutes it is cooked and ready to be eaten. Serve it with some juggery syrup or palm Sugar.

The other thing she wanted to eat is Marlar fish. She had bought some fishes during the morning. These were cut into big chunks and fried by one of her friends. She asked some people at home to make Marlar fish curry and then left to eat barbecue fish with her friends. She likes pleasure and food and will not stop till her desire is fulfilled.

Around Kunhing there are some resort like places to visit. Because there is the Nampang stream and some smaller streams water is plentiful. So on some places of the bank water is brought in to make ponds to be used as fisheries.Fishes from these ponds are caught and grilled or barbecued or make into soup to suit the customers’ wishes and served in little huts around low tables. The fishes taste good as they are fresh but for older people who avoid taking lives they are not places to visit. But for young people beside enjoying the fish dishes the places are pleasant and the sceneries around are pretty that they usually go and enjoy.

So Ying and her friends departed for a fish pond leaving instructions to make khao mun pa and marlar fish curry which nobody could know how and when she was coming back to eat.

I as usual stayed at home receiving guests who came and visited. I remembered that I tasted only one morsel of khao mun pa as sticky rice will not be good for the stomach in the evening and didn’t take the red hot marlar fish dish at all.

  

N 28    A Trip to my Hometown

Day   3  (6 -9 – 2012 )

When we arrived at Kali for the ceremony we drove straight to the monastery. When we reached there we didn’t see any signs of U Sai Tun Mya and the Nam Kone  association. We learned that they had departed for Namlan camp to collect funds. So I stayed at the monastery with relatives.

I have been told earlier that there is a young priest in Kali , who had opened voluntary classes and teach English to young and old people who are interested in learning. This priest is a native of Kali and when he is younger had to flee to Thailand to escape recruiting as a soldier by the Shan Army . So he grew up in a refugee camp and had the opportunity to learn English. So now as he has qualifications to teach what he has  learnt wants to educate the people of his birthplace. As he is granted a room to be used as a classroom had started his English classes in Kali. Villagers young and old from all walks of life with different levels of education come to learn. He teaches 3 periods a day taking 2 hours for one period.

 Some students of his wanted me to meet him.So they brought him to where I was sitting under a tree and they introduced me to him and we had a talk. I suggested that his timetable is a tiring one and why don’t he acquire  a let- tauk (assistant ) to help him in his work . As I had said the word assistant in Burmese Sai Thein Dan warned me that I should avoid speaking in Burmese because he does not know Burmese much. So from that time on  we conversed in English, The priest, Sydney Hlaing and I. He took us to see his classroom and showed us some English books for beginners and said he wanted to copy some books to give his students to read. As Sydney is going to Yangon he offered to do the copying for him.I suggested that he should not give the books free for those who can afford them but let them pay the copy price. For those who cannot afford he should set up a library and lend the books to those who want to read. He said that nearly all of his students are poor.It is a good sign that even poor village people want to learn English.  However Sydney brought 5 books to make 30 copies each for the classes.

When we came back to the main momastery it is nearly time for the ceremony to begin. Nang Hla May ( the widow of Sai Kham Lu –Sydney’s mother ) had handed out 3000 invitation letters to all friends and acquaintances of many villages as is the Shan custom. People from far and near came to participate in the ceremony bringing some rice and donated money as much as they can. The host treated them with lunch and desserts. Some waited to take part in the ceremony ( a hlu ) and some went back. As it is  time now for the ceremony the Abbots, priests, and novices were invited and the ceremony started. It took about an hour to finish.

After the ceremony some of us came back to Kunhing U Sai Tun Mya and Nam Kone association who had gone to Nam Lan and Merng Sang arrived back late in the evening with good news that they had received a good amount of donations. That the road to Merng Sang is rough as it is not paved with gravel and sand but only a bulldozed road and that it is muddy and washed away by rainwater , that the two ladies Nang Lao and Nang Kham Ein were so brave to have driven their 4 wheels on such a road and that it is fortunate for me for not going and so on.

In the evening old friends , relatives and students came and visited us, most with presents. U Sai Tun Mya was usually with his parties, So I only had to entertain the guests.They came one group after another that I even have to eat a late dinner . Anyhow to meet these people after many years is a happy event  and I hope that I will get another chance to do so in the future.

N 27 A Trip to My Hometown

Day 2  (5- 9 – 2012)

We left for Kali at about 9:30. If the road is smooth it will take only a jiffy for the 7 miles distance, but this 7 miles take longer, about 30 minutes. We stopped at Sydney’s mother’s place for sometime having refreshing drinks and snacks with 2 small cute children Naw Nawand Sai Kham Herng to entertain us.

After sometime we went to the monastery where preparations for tomorrow’s merit making ceremony is being made. U Sai Tun Mya and some village leaders held a meeting there to discuss some developments for the village. Nang Lao suggested that we go to her village mamely 7 miles village because it is 7 miles from Takaw bridge and have lunch there. She would call her relatives to have lunch prepared during our travelling.

So we took off for 7 miles village. People said that the road to Takaw is better than olden days. So we we expected to travel on a good smooth road. But the reality is the opposite of our expectation. Besides the rain was falling and the road was wet and muddy. Takaw where there is the mighty Salween river crossing bridge is about 21 miles from Kali. We passed some small villages while travelling on the rough road which eventually winds downwards when we were nearing the Salween River. The Salween river is called Nam Kone in the Shan language, and so the mountains here are called Loi Kone (loi is mountain) and they are so big and towering over the valley. There are small and big waterfalls in every bend of the road. We saw narrow and long waterfalls falling down from surface of the mountains. Some which are far from the road looks like a thin white line only, but those that cascade down to the road looks like real waterfalls.

 Although the road from Takaw Bridge to 7 miles village is really only 7 miles we thought it took us 7 hours to reach there. Beside the rough road hunger and the wet weather made us feel depressed and tired. At last we reached Nang Lao’s house which is on the side of the road and had seen better days as an inn and eatery. She told us that cars were full on the side of the road and they had to sell food until late at night then. But now that the road is better the place is no longer a place to rest and sleep for the nights.

Nang Lao had bought fishes on the way and she told us to wait a little until the fishes were cooked. They were the Salween River fishes which I sometimes longed to eat. The flesh is yellow and it is very delicious. I had eaten a few times in the past and my wish is going to be fulfilled now. Really when cooked it tasted so good that comments were given about it especially the fried fish which was better than the soup. The other vegetable curries also tasted good that we ate to our heart’s content.

After resting for some time we left 7mile village. We got to Takaw Bridge first and while waiting for the other cars to arrive had a chat with the army officer and the engineer who are posted there. There is a weighing machine there which detects Lorries for excess weight, which is the main cause for the deterioration of the roads.

A few miles from the west end of Takaw bridge we took a rest at a shop in Panglang village which happens to be Sai Shwe Hla’s (one of my fellow teachers ) house. He had gone to Kali and was not at home but his wife treated us with some refreshing drinks.

 We reached Kunhing before 6 pm in time for the closing of the bridge.Although the distance we travelled was not a long one, because the road is rough it had made the journey into a tiring one. But I felt satisfied to experience it because we cannot do so if the condition doesn’t permit us. Thanks to Nang Lao and the whole company (only 2 males) that we made it a day to be remembered forever.

N 26 A Trip to My Hometown

As I have written before, my hometown is Kunhing, which is on the Taunggyi- Kengtung road, 140 miles from Taunggyi. I have not been there for a decade, since 2002. So, when the situation arises to go there we decided to go. Two relatives from my husband’s side died recently and they are going to perform merit making ceremonies in Kunhing and Kali for the deceased.  To join them in their activities is one cause for our going. The other one is to visit and raise funds for Nam Kone social organization in Taunggyi which U Sai Tun Mya has accepted the place of chairman offered to him and does not have any funds. U Sai Tun Mya has also established a foundation in Kunhing called ‘One thousand Islands Foundation’. This time he is going to donate a funeral car for Kunhing. Another family also donated one for Kali. So, there is more than one reason for our going to Kunhing this time.

Day 1   (September 4 2012)

We had arranged for our 5 cars to go together. We had breakfast at Royal Pearl Rose Tea House and took off at about 9:00am.There is a little rain when we first set off. The road to Hopone (12 miles) is flat, but after Hopone it started to wind up and down hills and mountains. We passed Htamsang Cave which is now a famous visitors attraction site at 26 miles and arrived at Merng Pawn (30 ) miles. After Merng Pawn the road gets higher and higher, winding around hills and mountains. This part may be the highest in this area.The tar covered road is the remnant of roads built before World War 11 during British colonial rule, but many parts of it is in ruins although there is maintenance every year. It has never become a fully standardized road. On one side of the road is the cliff surface and on the other is a deep ravine. Only when we reach about 6 miles to Loilem we can see flat land.

Loilem is an old district town over 4400 feet above sea level. After Loilem the road winds down towards Namsang 17 miles away. We had lunch at Namsang. After Namsang comes Kholam (Black Bridge) at 105 miles from Taunggyi. About ten years ago it is only a village, but now an army command has been established there called the Middle Eastern Command. One can see walls of new army battalions as far as the eyes can reach.

Many years ago when we travelled to and from Taunggyi we were in a state of suspence thinking from what corner , from what bushes will robbers or insurgents appear. This is one of the things that are different now. There are no insurgents or robbers these days and so people can travel in peace and no worries.

It can be said that there are no high hills or mountains between Namsang and Kunhing. After Kholam comes Kung Pao. Many years ago when we reach this place we can have the sweet smell of Sal flowers, (Ingyin flower….. Pao is the Ingyin tree or Sal tree) but now no Sal or Ingyin tree can be seen. They may have ended up become somebody else’s house post or being trucked away. Not only the Sal trees had disappeared but also other trees that can be called big. Only small trees and bushes with creepers clinging over them, but as it is the rainy season the color is green and lustrous.

Lai Kam is a small village 7 miles from Kunhing. We can see a small pagoda at the end of a paddy field, but the village is hidden behind palm and other trees. The scene here is really picturesque.

After that comes more army battalions and then we entered Kunhing, the place we had lived and been happy for many years amid restlessness and insurgencies and many heartbeats. We were warmly welcomed not only by relatives and friends but also by the stifling heat of Kunhing which is only 1615 feet above sea level.

N24 The two Extremities

 Clothing has been a necessity for people since the beginning of civilization. As people become civilized food, clothing and shelter are the three main things people needed for their survival. So from ancient times people tried to get better and better in these three things.

As for clothing people around the world make and wear according to their tradition and customs. Weather, especially the hot and the cold weather is the main factor that influences the clothes of people. So people who live in cold places have to wear furs and clothes made of wool and thick materials to keep them warm.  But people who live in hot places wear light and thin clothes which are enough to cover their bodies. People who live in the deserts cover themselves from head to toe. This is because this way of wearing is suitable for the desert climate which is hot in the daytime and very cold at night.

In olden days people presumed that to cover the body is a civilized thing If we look at big continents of Europe , Asia, America people wear proper clothes according to their traditions and culture and they dressed fully except that the women’s dresses were  cut so low to reveal their chests. Only some people from some deep forests of Amazon, Africa, and some island countries wear little clothes and they take it as their culture.

But nowadays women began to wear more and more scantily. This way of wearing has become a fashion trend and it has started from countries of the west. After the bathing suit came the bikini and later nothing is worn under the sheer nylon fabric for the upper part and just a small patch with a string for the lower part of the body. This kind of fashion in the name of lingerie can be seen on TV 24 hours on the fashion channel.

Now this kind of fashion has spread all over the world. In our eastern countries women and girls wear a bra like top and very short pants or skirts as their casual dresses. It is an extremity that women of the world have gone into.

But there is a world where these scantily clad fashions cannot lay their hands on. This is happen in the Muslim world especially Muslim women from countries like Iran, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Pakistan, Afghanistan and some African countries. According to their tradition they have to cover themselves from head to toe. Even the face has to be covered fully with only a small slit for the eyes to see. This also is the other extreme I want to say.

In my opinion, none of these two extremities is proper. The scantily clad fashions only provokes the sexual interest of the opposite sex and often lead to crimes such as raping or sexual abuse. I have read in a book that in some African countries, authorities had to give order to lower the girl students skirts’ length as in these countries girls are sexually abused and often by male teachers. So the way of dressing is an important factor for criminal actions.

But the way Muslim women dress is also not good in my view as they are ugly. These women may also want to dress prettily and have some fashionable hairdos. Women’s beauty is God given present to them. So do they have to hide them in this way, but this is my view only. Some may like to change and dress freely, but they cannot do so because they are dominated by men who don’t want changes. And I also know that some still like to stay their own way.

I don’t like any of these two extreme ways of dressing for women. I would like women to dress sufficiently, may it be western or eastern, that is not much revealing , that cannot be called wanton, that is pleasing to the eyes, comfortable and agreeable to the weather.