Friday, April 25, 2025

N 129 My childhood days in Kunhing. I was born in Kunhing in Southern Shan State which is 140 miles from Taunggyi ,the capital of the State. When I was about 5 years old our family moved to Taunggyi for some reasons . In those days cars were not very plentiful. So to go to Taunggyi we had to rely on some lorries which transported people and goods to Kengtung, and maybe there were a few jeeps too. Like many other people who moved away but couldn’t forget their birthplace, we the children would like to visit Kunhing whenever we had a chance,though it was not even a town where many people resided,but a few houses scattered here and there. In the early years my grandmother was still alive, so we had grandmother and an aunt with her family to stay with.


(Front row left to right : mother's elder sister, unknown, mother's mother, mother) They would dote on us , children, with special foods they have. We ate sticky rice with fried fresh carp from Nam Pang river. The fishes caught from Nam Pang river then were so delicious, because they were natural. Fried pork or some fermented meat with sticky rice was also a common food . On market days when we entered the small market our nostrils were met by the smell of Shan mount ti. We ate this with eggs and fried dried pork skin. Eggs in those days were natural and they were sold by putting in small woven bamboo strips. There were also other Shan snacks like Khao moon part , khao moon haw and some other khao moons.

The other attraction of Kunhing is the Nam Pang stream. Though it is called stream it actually is as big as a river with its head in Mernghsu, a town north of Kunhing. It may be about 300 yards at its widest and would be deep because of its emerald green color. There was a wooden bridge across it in those days with some space between the planks that it was frightful for us children to look down to the water.

As long as I can remember, nobody swam across the stream. But I heard that my mother when she was young swam across it, but surely with company, which would be her cousins. I learned that they swam not the whole length in one stroke, but rest on boulders which are plentiful in the stream. And my mother and her cousins when they did boating in the stream would be reckless enough to choose the smallest boats. They were young and could swim well then , and if something happen help would surely come from nearby. We children never had opportunity to bathe ,to swim in the Nam Pang river. Our bathing time was in the evening ,when we were taken to a small waterfall made by some planks to have water from a small stream flow down to a lower place, where we bathe under it. There also was a platform made of thick wooden planks to wash and do washing clothes .There also was a rice mill with a waterwheel near there, which was running night and day. We children were happy and satisfied to go and bathe at this small waterfall and would be looking to the time to go there.

Kunhing is hot as it is only 1615 feet above sea level with no high mountains. I recalled a unique way of how we kept cool during the summer months while we were there. A big bamboo mat which maybe about 8 or 10 feet ,bounded by bamboo strips at the edges were secured to a beam by ropes was let hanging down. This mat was pulled backwards and forwards by maids to let cool air fill the space while family members sit or lie down on the floor mat. I never saw this way of keeping cool anywhere,but only there in those days. As I mentioned earlier Kunhing is 140 miles away from Taunggyi. Even there were no effective means of traveling in the early days ,for some reasons people were going places. Around 1930, when my mother was at the age of 15/16 she travelled to Taunggyi with her mother . I learned that the two of them traveled in a bullock cart with only the cart driver as their company. At night they slept in the cart while the driver slept on the ground. My mother who was dubbed “Golden Tree “because she always wear heavy jewelry, would then be wearing jewelry ,but the country under British rule by then was peaceful with no robbers or dacoits ,that they had nothing to fear of. The journey took them 10 days to reach Taunggyi.



Even in my mother’s time I think the road between Taunggyi and Kunhing was paved with asphalt. The author Morris Collision seemed to reach Kunhing in one day, and then next day he even reached Kengtung riding in lorries. The road between Kunhing and Taunggyi sometimes passes through lowlands, though there are curves and bends occasionally, but after Loilem the region is mountainous, that it is dangerous for cars to pass through. On one side are massive rock walls that cannot be blown to widen the road, and on the other side deep precipices, where sometimes cars fall down and caused casualties.

The name Kunhing comes from the word Kunhing which means a thousand islands, because there are many islands in the Nampang Stream. After my grandparents time more people came and settled on the west bank and gradually it grew to become a town. As for now it had became an important town because of its location, which is on the Asian Road, the capital of a township with departmental offices and a fair population.

Friday, April 18, 2025

 



N 128  What I remember of old Kunhing….


My ancestors were originally not from Kunhing, but from Kehsi Mansam. My grandfather’s name was Loong Wisainda and my grandmother Daw Shwe Mya. She had a Burmese name because her father was Bo Tat Ye  U Thar Pe (ဗိုလ်တပ်ရဲ ဦးသာဖဲ ) a Burmese, and an army officer of the  Burmese King . They came to live in Kunhing because  he was appointed Haing (  headman ) when his youngest sister Nang Perng became mahadevi of Merng Nawng.Although Kunhing was small the haing   had full power over his territory and Kunhing then was a small village. A group of houses here, a group there made a village called Kunhing. My grandparents house was on a place called Kun Nar on the east bank of Nampang stream . I imagined that their house would be a large house made of timber, bamboo and thatch. But this house had seen many important incidents and people.In a small village where there was not a bungalow or rest house ,for prominent people the headman’s house would surely become their sanctuary for their stay.





The Sawbwa of Merng Nawng had often been a guest in this house as he was married to my mother ( she didn’t become a Mahadevi, as she was not a Sawbwa’s daughter,but actually the Sawbwa didn’t have a Mahadevi) . When prime minister U Nu came to this house ,he first went to pay homage to the Buddha statues at the altar. I was born on a September day 1945, when the Japanese army left the country and British army came back. On that night the house was full of British soldiers led by a colonel Leech (not sure of the spelling ) After I was born they showered  my mother with gifts,which  definitely would be milk powder, clothings, medicine and  other foods.Another  incident on that night was that they found a black snake on a beam under the roof , which was caught and killed by servicemen of the household.





The most significant visitor of this house might be the English author Morris Collis. He wrote about his staying at this house in his book " Lords of the Sunset " .He met my mother , whom he mistook her name with one of her cousins "Kyar Nu " He also met the Merng Nawng Sawbwa here. Looked like he didn't introduce my mother to Mr Collis as his wife, but understantably they were Shan people ,not English.The next day for his journey to Kengtung ,the Sawbwa and my mother even accompany him to Takaw where they had to cross the Salween River by ferry again.


              



Not very far from my grandparents house  there are two medium sized pagodas. They were Siamese style pagodas and were said to be built by troops who went to war to Siam. There are no history about them and were not in good shape. My grandparents renovated one and  my family restore the other one while we were living in Kunhing before 1990. The monastery where villagers worship was on a hill at the east of my granparents house.I remember that the monks resided there used Yoon Shan language prayers when reciting.


After my grandparents passed away,my aunt and her husband became haing.Gradually the west bank grew and more people came to live there.Later the haing position also changed hands to Haing Sang who was said to build a market there .The village continued growing until it reached its status as a township with a hospital, a middle school,police station and all facilities of a township. 



Tuesday, April 8, 2025






To Ngapali....

I worked in Kunhing as a Middle School Head  starting from 1968. After 13 years I got promoted to High School Head. I transferred to BEHS 2 Taunggyi in 1990. During the years in Kunhing I often had to travel to Taunggyi or Loilem ,mostly on official duty. I had to take any vehicle that was available ,which was mostly the BOC lorry. To get to ride in the front seat was the most luxurious  thing and sometimes even had to climb up to the top and sit on the cargoes the truck was carrying. And the situation in the region then , was not good with insurgents and robbers. But I was much fortunate that I never encountered any mishaps.

In this blog I am going to write about traveling to Ngapali….but sorry for the little long introduction.

To go overland it can be said that Ngapali is a long way. Because we had been to Yangon and Bagan, this time we decided to go to Ngapali.Our family do not like to travel by ourselves .We think a bigger company will make us merrier, and happier and  so we asked around for people who would like to join us on this trip. The number we got was staggering, about 50 in all. So we had to hire 3 Hilux or Datsun trucks for the journey.


The journey took us to Taunggyi and before reaching Yangon, at Hlegu we took the Pyay road. I didn’t remember where we slept for the night. At Pyay we had to cross the Ayarwaddy river by ferry to reach Padaung where the infamous Padaung- Taunggok  road commenced.As the Rakhine division is separated from Burma Proper by the Rakhine Yoma ranges,the road has to cross over mountainous regions of curves and bends, ups and downs,so that drivers have to drive with much care. The Rakhine Yoma is an isolated place with little population and dense forests that wild animals inhabit this area. At roadside food stalls different kinds of wild meat,such as boar and deer and rabbit and birds are cooked and sold.

After the long descend we reached Taunggok, a prominent town in this state.There was a relative Sai Kyi Maung and his family living there, and his mother Pa Nang was also in our group. We met them and they took us to eat Rakhine mount ti for breakfast. This was the first time I had to eat this food and when I first saw the clear soup I thought to myself…. just look at the soup….how delicious would it be ? I took a sip… hmm not bad… it’s sweet,but rather spicy….then another  spoonful and then more until all in the bowl was gone. It was cooked with a kind of fish called nga shwe. From that time I came to like Rakhine mount ti and nga  shwe. I usually ordered nga shwe to put in our curry as seasoning because it makes the foods delicious. 


Ngapali is about 50 miles from Taunggok. When we reached our bungalow which was not far from the beach we just sat on the steps and watch the sea in awe.How beautiful it is…. the panorama  of the blue sea , under the blue sky ,stretching towards the horizon…. The scenery was pretty like what we have watched in movies. We are people of the mountains, highlanders, who have never seen the sea. So we were awestruck with the seascape and also the swaying palm trees, the rustling of palm leaves .I even had an urge to come and live in Ngapali. But at night the sound of the sea was a nuisance to a sound sleep.


We were not real holiday makers who had come to the beach to enjoy beach activities equipped with fancy swimsuits,sunglasses, beach chairs,sunscreens. Our company consisted many old people,and children,and some young people. But surely all people had a dip or 2 in the sea,not in swimsuits but in loose longyis tied around the chest.


After 2 or more hard day’s journey I and some in our group wanted to stay a little more time at Ngapali. But U know what older people say…. there are no famous pagodas and temples where we can visit and pay homage here….what’s the use staying more times here…. So, after 2 nights we bade farewell to Ngapali and set back on our return journey.


My encounter with Ngapali didn’t end here, because I had another visit to it.While I was working at BEHS2 in Taunggyi I was selected as one of the management committee to lead students who were taking part in the Student’s Festival to be held in Sittway. This trip gave me many advantages,like visiting Sittway, a new place for me, a cruise along the Gispanadi (kaladan ) river which took us to Kyaukdaw, and Mrauk Oo, and then another trip to Ngapali,where I had been once, but was still enjoyable.And another experience which I wouldn’t dream was boarding the cruise ship for the journey from Ngapali to Yangon .