N 131 – Domestic Travels (to Shweli)

My eldest daughter Ying’s in-laws are from Mo Gyo Pyit village, located in Pyin Oo Lwin township. The elderly couple would often visit and stay with us in Yangon during the winter. The mother-in-law had a brother who was an abbot—referred to as “Na Sang”—residing at Loi Kyaung Seng Monastery in Shweli, across the border in China. Occasionally, the in-laws would travel to visit Na Sang and would invite us to join them on these trips.

The farthest I had ever been in Northern Shan State was Pyin Oo Lwin (formerly Maymyo). Since I had never been beyond that point—especially not to the border—I decided to join them on this trip. There was to be a novitiation ceremony around the full moon day of Tabaung, and since Na Sang had invited many family members and friends from Mo Gyo Pyit, a large group planned to go. I don’t remember how many cars we used, but I do remember the excitement and panic I felt while crossing the winding and treacherous Gokteik road.

After passing through many towns I was familiar with, we eventually reached Muse, where we spent the night. The next morning, after obtaining our passes to enter Chinese territory, we crossed the border gate. About an hour later, we arrived at Loi Kyaung Seng Monastery, perched on a hill above a Shan village.

Though it was already March, the weather was still cold. Fortunately, the monastery was well-prepared for guests, with piles of warm bedding. Villagers had been preparing food for days. In the lead-up to the ceremony, we were served simple dishes such as cabbage, mustard greens, and a soup made with samounsapa (စမုံစပါး), which was unfamiliar to us. Besides guests from Myanmar like ourselves, locals also arrived by the busload—not only from nearby villages but even from as far as Manshi city, about 60 miles away.

The people living in the area are Tai Nuer (whom we refer to as Shan Tayoke). While we share the same Shan language, their accent is quite different, often making it difficult to understand one another. Still, we managed to communicate, even if not every word was clear. Most of the festival attendees were elderly, predominantly women, all dressed in black clothing with matching black turbans.

The monastery grounds had turned into a vibrant festival area. There were stalls selling foods such as khou moon haw, khou moon larm, and other Shan snacks that reminded me of Kunhing. Vendors sold clothing, household items, and a variety of goods that attracted the crowds. Like many small festivals, there were also mini gambling stalls—roulette wheels and dice games betting on four or six animals. These were so tempting that it was hard to resist going near.

What impressed me most was the group dance performed by villagers in the monastery compound. Nearly everyone at the festival formed a large circle and danced to the rhythmic beat of drums and cymbals, moving in unison without breaking the circle. Most participants were women, and during the peak of the festival, there were several dancing circles. At the time, this style of communal dance wasn’t yet popular in our country—but in recent years, similar dances have gained popularity, especially to songs like Koan Kar… Koan Kar…

After the novitiation ceremony concluded and the young novices were robed in their thingan, the event came to an end. The next morning, Na Sang took us to visit Manshi. As mentioned earlier, the city is about 60 miles from Ruili, and it took us a while to get there. On the way, we stopped to pay homage at some pagodas with Chinese architectural styles. However, upon reaching Manshi, there wasn’t much to see. I had hoped to meet more of the black-clad Tai Nuer people, but it seems they could only be found in their villages. The townspeople were mostly ordinary Chinese residents dressed in casual attire. We had lunch near a bazaar and wandered around the market, which was rather quiet. Some shopkeepers had small tables set up in front of their shops where they played mahjong or card games.

After returning across the border to our guesthouse, we decided to explore a new destination. Instead of visiting Namkham, we chose to go to Kyu Kok Pan Saing, about 30 miles from Muse. In hindsight, this was not the best decision. As our cars traveled along the road, we didn’t see any people or other vehicles. The area seemed deserted. A sense of unease crept in, and although no one voiced it aloud, we all felt the same apprehension. Thankfully, our worries turned out to be unfounded—we arrived and returned safely. However, I remember nothing of the town itself, except for the simple fact that I had once been there.

The next morning, as I sat in the car for the homeward journey, I reflected on an experience filled with chilly memories and warm sensations. We had set out early, when the cold seemed to bite more sharply than it had the days before. Thankfully, I had a trusty pair of socks tucked away, offering a small but comforting warmth to an otherwise frosty morning.

After some time, we reached a roadside eatery in Hsenwi Township. By then, the sun had made its appearance, casting a golden glow over the buffet spread that awaited us. Simply being there seemed to melt away the lingering chill in the air, igniting our appetites.

The curries we indulged in were nothing short of delicious—a delightful fusion of Tai and Chinese flavors. Even now, the taste lingers in my memory. It’s this lingering warmth and richness that I want to capture in words, marking the perfect close to this blog.

N  130 Domestic Travels  ( To Mogok )

The travels I am writing about are mostly what I took  long ago, round about 1990s when I was working as the principle of BEHS 2.It usually would be during Christmas ,or early summer holidays. Once we chose to go to Mogok,the famous ruby producing town.Beside that Mogok was a place we hadn't been ,there was another reason that we chose to visit it.Our niece  Nang Ku's ( Mya Win May )family was doing mining in Mogok and as their house is in Mandalay we had no problem of staying for the nights, either in Mandalay or Mogok.  

So as usual we gathered  people who would be going with us, relatives and friends. Most were relatives, including Nang Ku's parents and relatives who came down from Kunhing. I didn't remember well ,but I thought we travelled in two cars.The road from Taunggyi to Mandalay is 210 miles and smooth ,so we reached Mandalay before dusk fell and drove right to Nang Ku's house which is on the Mandalay Sagaing Road. 

I don't remember much about Mandalay Mogok road except that it was not very good, with curves and bends,ups and downs. But I remember that we got excited when we knew that A Nyar Thihadaw Paya is situated on the way and we would visit it. It is in Khin Oo Township.When we reached there we had to cross the Irrawaddy river by  ferry because the famous Buddha statue is on an island. 

I knew something about this statue because I had been to Pakokku, Shwe Tan Tit Paya ,where there also is a statue like this there. Actually , I learned that there are three statues , carved from one  sacred tree trunk, with myths and legends surrounded them,which my rusty mind cannot retell. So beside these two I already mentioned the remaining one is at Shwe Kyee Myin Paya in Mandalay. The statues are believed to be very sacred and wishes fulfilled that they are valued much , that they are showered with valuable offerings like gold jewelries and guarded well.(There are also variations concerning the statues, but I am  writing only what I heard ) 

After our usual paying homage and donations were made we continued our tiresome journey until we reached our destination by dusk. We put up at a house U Yone Sein arranged for us. 

The next morning after we had eaten the famous  Mogok warm tofu we visited and paid homage to famous pagodas of Mogok, namely Chanthagyi Paya, Paungdaw Oo Paya,Daw Nan Kyi Taung, and Kyauk Pya That  Paya. Mogok is not a town built on flat land,but surrounded by hills and mountains. The views of the town from where the pagodas are situated are awesome  and can see parts of the town clearly. As for our group, photo taking was a thing that could not be resisted like elsewhere. Could  not remember what camera was used, as handphones were not common then ,but we surely took and saved some photos. 

Later in the afternoon U Yone Sein took our group to visit Merng Mit. I heard that the road to Merng Mit is rough, with many ups and downs. I am afraid that it would make me tired, so that I didn't go with the group. Now I am regretting that I had not gone there. Merng Mit is an important Sawbwa township with a long history. Its ruler Sao Khun Cho had also played an important role in   Shan State's post war history. 

The next day U Yone Sein took us to the Oo Paing workplace to observe how rubies and other gems are produced. The earth that contain the rough gems are excavated by machines like backhoes, or brought up from deep shafts or pits by labourers. This earth is washed down by power water hose and the residue  is scrutinized for gems.Because gems are small and can be stolen and hidden in the workers bodies, that security is tight and workers scrutinized thoroughly.

Mogok is world famous for the rubies, sapphires and other gems that it produced.The rough gems from workplaces went direct to gems bazaar called htar pwe, where cut and polished gemstones are also sold. Htar pwe of Mogok is not a grand place ,though  precious gems are sold. That is due to the coditions of our country and the mindset of the people in power. As nobody in our group were interested to buy gems we didn't go to the htar pwe. 

But I want to relate an incident concerning Mogok in the early  19 century. In 1906 Mr Reginald Lee from England came to Taunggyi with his family to take over Shan Chief School as its principle. While settling in Taunggyi this Englishman and his family did a lot of travelling, either by bullock carts or by walking.They even walked down to Nyaungshwe, which nobody did in those days.( Nang Nang ( Shan Pyay ) Moe Pyar out ka Thanlwin ) 

When they travelled they would take all they need for their comfort. Beside food they took tents, beddings, furnitures,or even bathtub for bathing. So they travelled in caravans of bullock carts for the family, and horses and mules to carry their things. 

Once they intended to travel to Mogok by the way of Loilem/ Merng Keung.They would have to replace their mules with a set of new  mules there. But when they reached Merng Keung the famous Pagoda festival was in full swing. No muleteer and mules could be hired in that condition,even by orders from the Sawbwa.So after waiting some days they had to turn back to Taunggyi. 

They did not give up their plan to visit Mogok. But the next time they went by the way of Mandalay through Maymyo to northern Shanland. So this time  they reached their destination successfully. According to the book they bought some rubies ,but not at htar pwe. One incident described how a man with worn out clothes came to their dwelling place to sell gems to them. He would took off his dirty turban, unfold it and from there a packet of rubies would appear. And then the hagging for the price would follow, and when agreed the buying and selling would come to an end.I am thinking if the rubies Mr Lee bought then were of good quality and were still in his descendants possession  they would be cradling a fortune now.

As we didn't have intentions to buy rubies or other gems , we didn't go to htar pwe. We were satisfied just to have visited the world famous Mogok. And so after staying two nights , we said Good bye to Mogok and started our return journey to Mandalay.

 

 

N 129 My childhood days in Kunhing. I was born in Kunhing in Southern Shan State which is 140 miles from Taunggyi ,the capital of the State. When I was about 5 years old our family moved to Taunggyi for some reasons . In those days cars were not very plentiful. So to go to Taunggyi we had to rely on some lorries which transported people and goods to Kengtung, and maybe there were a few jeeps too. Like many other people who moved away but couldn’t forget their birthplace, we the children would like to visit Kunhing whenever we had a chance,though it was not even a town where many people resided,but a few houses scattered here and there. In the early years my grandmother was still alive, so we had grandmother and an aunt with her family to stay with.

(Front row left to right : mother's elder sister, unknown, mother's mother, mother) They would dote on us , children, with special foods they have. We ate sticky rice with fried fresh carp from Nam Pang river. The fishes caught from Nam Pang river then were so delicious, because they were natural. Fried pork or some fermented meat with sticky rice was also a common food . On market days when we entered the small market our nostrils were met by the smell of Shan mount ti. We ate this with eggs and fried dried pork skin. Eggs in those days were natural and they were sold by putting in small woven bamboo strips. There were also other Shan snacks like Khao moon part , khao moon haw and some other khao moons.

The other attraction of Kunhing is the Nam Pang stream. Though it is called stream it actually is as big as a river with its head in Mernghsu, a town north of Kunhing. It may be about 300 yards at its widest and would be deep because of its emerald green color. There was a wooden bridge across it in those days with some space between the planks that it was frightful for us children to look down to the water.

As long as I can remember, nobody swam across the stream. But I heard that my mother when she was young swam across it, but surely with company, which would be her cousins. I learned that they swam not the whole length in one stroke, but rest on boulders which are plentiful in the stream. And my mother and her cousins when they did boating in the stream would be reckless enough to choose the smallest boats. They were young and could swim well then , and if something happen help would surely come from nearby. We children never had opportunity to bathe ,to swim in the Nam Pang river. Our bathing time was in the evening ,when we were taken to a small waterfall made by some planks to have water from a small stream flow down to a lower place, where we bathe under it. There also was a platform made of thick wooden planks to wash and do washing clothes .There also was a rice mill with a waterwheel near there, which was running night and day. We children were happy and satisfied to go and bathe at this small waterfall and would be looking to the time to go there.

Kunhing is hot as it is only 1615 feet above sea level with no high mountains. I recalled a unique way of how we kept cool during the summer months while we were there. A big bamboo mat which maybe about 8 or 10 feet ,bounded by bamboo strips at the edges were secured to a beam by ropes was let hanging down. This mat was pulled backwards and forwards by maids to let cool air fill the space while family members sit or lie down on the floor mat. I never saw this way of keeping cool anywhere,but only there in those days. As I mentioned earlier Kunhing is 140 miles away from Taunggyi. Even there were no effective means of traveling in the early days ,for some reasons people were going places. Around 1930, when my mother was at the age of 15/16 she travelled to Taunggyi with her mother . I learned that the two of them traveled in a bullock cart with only the cart driver as their company. At night they slept in the cart while the driver slept on the ground. My mother who was dubbed “Golden Tree “because she always wear heavy jewelry, would then be wearing jewelry ,but the country under British rule by then was peaceful with no robbers or dacoits ,that they had nothing to fear of. The journey took them 10 days to reach Taunggyi.

Even in my mother’s time I think the road between Taunggyi and Kunhing was paved with asphalt. The author Morris Collision seemed to reach Kunhing in one day, and then next day he even reached Kengtung riding in lorries. The road between Kunhing and Taunggyi sometimes passes through lowlands, though there are curves and bends occasionally, but after Loilem the region is mountainous, that it is dangerous for cars to pass through. On one side are massive rock walls that cannot be blown to widen the road, and on the other side deep precipices, where sometimes cars fall down and caused casualties.

The name Kunhing comes from the word Kunhing which means a thousand islands, because there are many islands in the Nampang Stream. After my grandparents time more people came and settled on the west bank and gradually it grew to become a town. As for now it had became an important town because of its location, which is on the Asian Road, the capital of a township with departmental offices and a fair population.

 

N 128  What I remember of old Kunhing….

My ancestors were originally not from Kunhing, but from Kehsi Mansam. My grandfather’s name was Loong Wisainda and my grandmother Daw Shwe Mya. She had a Burmese name because her father was Bo Tat Ye  U Thar Pe (ဗိုလ်တပ်ရဲ ဦးသာဖဲ ) a Burmese, and an army officer of the  Burmese King . They came to live in Kunhing because  he was appointed Haing (  headman ) when his youngest sister Nang Perng became mahadevi of Merng Nawng.Although Kunhing was small the haing   had full power over his territory and Kunhing then was a small village. A group of houses here, a group there made a village called Kunhing. My grandparents house was on a place called Kun Nar on the east bank of Nampang stream . I imagined that their house would be a large house made of timber, bamboo and thatch. But this house had seen many important incidents and people.In a small village where there was not a bungalow or rest house ,for prominent people the headman’s house would surely become their sanctuary for their stay.

The Sawbwa of Merng Nawng had often been a guest in this house as he was married to my mother ( she didn’t become a Mahadevi, as she was not a Sawbwa’s daughter,but actually the Sawbwa didn’t have a Mahadevi) . When prime minister U Nu came to this house ,he first went to pay homage to the Buddha statues at the altar. I was born on a September day 1945, when the Japanese army left the country and British army came back. On that night the house was full of British soldiers led by a colonel Leech (not sure of the spelling ) After I was born they showered  my mother with gifts,which  definitely would be milk powder, clothings, medicine and  other foods.Another  incident on that night was that they found a black snake on a beam under the roof , which was caught and killed by servicemen of the household.

The most significant visitor of this house might be the English author Morris Collis. He wrote about his staying at this house in his book " Lords of the Sunset " .He met my mother , whom he mistook her name with one of her cousins "Kyar Nu " He also met the Merng Nawng Sawbwa here. Looked like he didn't introduce my mother to Mr Collis as his wife, but understantably they were Shan people ,not English.The next day for his journey to Kengtung ,the Sawbwa and my mother even accompany him to Takaw where they had to cross the Salween River by ferry again.

              

Not very far from my grandparents house  there are two medium sized pagodas. They were Siamese style pagodas and were said to be built by troops who went to war to Siam. There are no history about them and were not in good shape. My grandparents renovated one and  my family restore the other one while we were living in Kunhing before 1990. The monastery where villagers worship was on a hill at the east of my granparents house.I remember that the monks resided there used Yoon Shan language prayers when reciting.

After my grandparents passed away,my aunt and her husband became haing.Gradually the west bank grew and more people came to live there.Later the haing position also changed hands to Haing Sang who was said to build a market there .The village continued growing until it reached its status as a township with a hospital, a middle school,police station and all facilities of a township. 

N 127….. Domestic Travels 2

To Ngapali....

I worked in Kunhing as a Middle School Head  starting from 1968. After 13 years I got promoted to High School Head. I transferred to BEHS 2 Taunggyi in 1990. During the years in Kunhing I often had to travel to Taunggyi or Loilem ,mostly on official duty. I had to take any vehicle that was available ,which was mostly the BOC lorry. To get to ride in the front seat was the most luxurious  thing and sometimes even had to climb up to the top and sit on the cargoes the truck was carrying. And the situation in the region then , was not good with insurgents and robbers. But I was much fortunate that I never encountered any mishaps.

In this blog I am going to write about traveling to Ngapali….but sorry for the little long introduction.

To go overland it can be said that Ngapali is a long way. Because we had been to Yangon and Bagan, this time we decided to go to Ngapali.Our family do not like to travel by ourselves .We think a bigger company will make us merrier, and happier and  so we asked around for people who would like to join us on this trip. The number we got was staggering, about 50 in all. So we had to hire 3 Hilux or Datsun trucks for the journey.

The journey took us to Taunggyi and before reaching Yangon, at Hlegu we took the Pyay road. I didn’t remember where we slept for the night. At Pyay we had to cross the Ayarwaddy river by ferry to reach Padaung where the infamous Padaung- Taunggok  road commenced.As the Rakhine division is separated from Burma Proper by the Rakhine Yoma ranges,the road has to cross over mountainous regions of curves and bends, ups and downs,so that drivers have to drive with much care. The Rakhine Yoma is an isolated place with little population and dense forests that wild animals inhabit this area. At roadside food stalls different kinds of wild meat,such as boar and deer and rabbit and birds are cooked and sold.

After the long descend we reached Taunggok, a prominent town in this state.There was a relative Sai Kyi Maung and his family living there, and his mother Pa Nang was also in our group. We met them and they took us to eat Rakhine mount ti for breakfast. This was the first time I had to eat this food and when I first saw the clear soup I thought to myself…. just look at the soup….how delicious would it be ? I took a sip… hmm not bad… it’s sweet,but rather spicy….then another  spoonful and then more until all in the bowl was gone. It was cooked with a kind of fish called nga shwe. From that time I came to like Rakhine mount ti and nga  shwe. I usually ordered nga shwe to put in our curry as seasoning because it makes the foods delicious. 

Ngapali is about 50 miles from Taunggok. When we reached our bungalow which was not far from the beach we just sat on the steps and watch the sea in awe.How beautiful it is…. the panorama  of the blue sea , under the blue sky ,stretching towards the horizon…. The scenery was pretty like what we have watched in movies. We are people of the mountains, highlanders, who have never seen the sea. So we were awestruck with the seascape and also the swaying palm trees, the rustling of palm leaves .I even had an urge to come and live in Ngapali. But at night the sound of the sea was a nuisance to a sound sleep.

We were not real holiday makers who had come to the beach to enjoy beach activities equipped with fancy swimsuits,sunglasses, beach chairs,sunscreens. Our company consisted many old people,and children,and some young people. But surely all people had a dip or 2 in the sea,not in swimsuits but in loose longyis tied around the chest.

After 2 or more hard day’s journey I and some in our group wanted to stay a little more time at Ngapali. But U know what older people say…. there are no famous pagodas and temples where we can visit and pay homage here….what’s the use staying more times here…. So, after 2 nights we bade farewell to Ngapali and set back on our return journey.

My encounter with Ngapali didn’t end here, because I had another visit to it.While I was working at BEHS2 in Taunggyi I was selected as one of the management committee to lead students who were taking part in the Student’s Festival to be held in Sittway. This trip gave me many advantages,like visiting Sittway, a new place for me, a cruise along the Gispanadi (kaladan ) river which took us to Kyaukdaw, and Mrauk Oo, and then another trip to Ngapali,where I had been once, but was still enjoyable.And another experience which I wouldn’t dream was boarding the cruise ship for the journey from Ngapali to Yangon .